What to think about when tuning & maintaining cars, Maptun answers your questions!
January 22, 2013 in MapTun
For a couple of days SU has visited Maptun Performance in Örebro in order to check out how a car is tuned. At the same time we decided to ask these guys who are true experts on tuning cars on what to think about when wanting more horse-power but also what to think about when maintaining your Saab etc. P-A Johansson (who has built the 1000 hp Saab), CEO Fredrik Bengtsson and Customer Support Manager took the time out of their extremely busy workday to answer your questions. Have a look below and you’ll probably learn a lot!
Q: I would like to hear the main difference regarding tuning between MapTun, BSR and Hirsch, Why does MapTun`s software act different compared to the others etc. ?
A: I do not want to comment on the competition and can only talk about the software we create. The philosophy behind Maptuns software is the feeling of the Saab original way of doing things but with a lot more power, the force comes softly but firmly and trying to reduce boost peaks giving a comfortable ride. We strive for nice smooth torque curves. Its very important to to choose the reduce the amount of peaks of torques. These boost-peaks are mean to the car in terms or reliability. Of course we can go crazy but then we’re talking about a different category of cars & customers. / Fredrik Bengtsson
Q: Are the twin exhausts for the 9-5 (MY2006) wagon subtle? I’d like an exhaust that looks cool and sounds great but not in a crappy farty way like so many of these sports/performance ones that seem to adorn so many rubbish cars that are often lowered as well.
A: 2,5 inches, sounds more subtile and 3″ inch is too loud and sounds like an empty can. Maptun has tested a specific exhaust system for the 9-5 to get a nice driving comfort but at the same time work very well with tuning and performance. / P-A Johansson
Q: I’m wondering if there is more risk to engine tuning when the engine is more experienced with ,let’s say 100’000 km, compared to a brand new engine?
A: Everything is worn and torn with age and milage, that is unavoidable. The most important is however not the milage but rather how the car has been maintained. / P-A Johansson
Q: Any Maptun BBK for 9-5NG?
A: The 336 mm brakes are available for the NG 9-5. Due to the high weight of the 9-5NG we recommend at minimum the 336 mm kit however the 360 mm brake kit is also available. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: My son Andrew and I are rebuilding a 1997 CSE into an Aero. The front springs on the CVE are broken and need to be replaced and we’re thinking of maybe using Maptun items rather than secondhand original-specification. What difference would this make?
A: The Maptun springs make the car lower, about 30 mm than original, used original springs could be very unreliable. Normally its change all four for reliability. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: I consider myself as a regular SAAB driver. I drive around 20 000 km per year, not very slowly 50-60 km/h in town, but also not very fast around 140-150 km/h on the highway. Maybe 40% of my driving is in urban areas and 60 % – long driving on 1st class roads or highway. What is the most reliable SAAB engine the guys from Maptun would recommend for a person like me?
A: I would recommend the 9-3 SS/SC, 2008 is a very affordable car. / P-A Johansson
Q: How do you best maintain an engine so that it would last “forever” and what parts usually break and when?
A: Rather changing the oil often than paying lots of money for expensive oil, you need to get rid of all the small fragments in the oil such as sot and metal-particles that enters the oil as it is driven. Do not drive with the same oil for more than 10’000 km at maximum. The worst problem with the 9-5 is the turbo, cam-transmission chain, rear bushings & Drop-links. The 9-3 is better, the most common problem is the forward crankshaft seal, seal for the power steer-pump & rear bushings / P-A Johansson
Q: Why are some companies selling TD04 Aero turbos for 200-300 USD and why are yours so expensive?
A: Our turbos are genuine Mitsubishi turbos. There are unfortunately lots of cheep copies out there, they look exactly the same with all the article numbers and letter whoever they lack the Mitsubishi logo on the exhaust housing, that is the only way to tell them apart without taking the turbo a part for inspection. We’re often seeing non-genuine version of turbos that do not perform as a real one would. The big difference is in loss of performance and reliability of the turbo. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: Once the Ecu is replaced on OG 9-3 with a Maptun ecu can additional stage upgrades be “plug and played” like later model 9-3′s?
A: It depends on the Engine Management System, the Maptuner tuning computer which the software is supplied with only supports T7 Engines or newer. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: How do you avoid torque steer with so much power going though the front wheels.
A: A differential is a good option, most cars are different, limit the torque in the software, good tires is essential. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: Would you guys consider making Biopower convertion for 9-3 2.0 XWD -09? And a at least 370hp kit?
A: To be able to tune these cars we need to install an ethanol sensor and other additional parts which in the end make the tuning too costly for the customer.
Q: A lot of TTID, have been sold since the introduction back in 2008. Still there is not many upgrades for them?
A: The demand is not very high and to increase horse-power significantly a lot of hardware needs to be replaced which brings the price up a bit too much. / Fredrik Bengtsson
Q: Is there a front strut-brace for the 9-5 1997-2010?
A: We’re re-designing it right now and will test the brand new deign that it works the way we want it to and we’ll hopefully have it done this spring. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: What is, by the book, a safe hp and tq limit for the ecotec based b207 stock bottom end and pistons
A: The type of clutch varies on the version of the B207, for example the B207E will support 270 Nm but one needs engineer the software very carefully not to get any peaks in torques with a turbo-pressure of just over 1 bar. The pistons will support 300 hp. / Fredrik Bengtsson
Q: For petrol engines, all kinds of tuning measures are available. For Diesel engines, tuning seems to be strictly limited to firmware tuning. Why ?
A: Lack of demand and any higher power-output requires a larger turbo. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: I’ve heard that the penalty for a tuning upgrade is a lower life expectancy for the engine. I would like to ask if there any evidence that is the case and if so what is their qualitative expectation of by how much a diesel engine’s life may be shortened by an upgrade?
A: For example the TTiD has a range from 130-180 hp as original with the exact same engine. The most important factor is not the amount of horsepower on paper but rather what the torque-curve looks like, an ECU software can be made in so many ways and what aspects are considers such as turbo-rpm, rail-pressure etc. If you definitely want to kill your engine buy a plug-in box which only manipulates the fuel pressure. / Fredrik Bengtsson
Q: Maptun has high torque clutches for the high power upgrade of your Saab, but what should you do if you have an automatic transmission?
A: Limit torque at a safe level that the automatic transmission can handle or be aware of the risks and raise the torque. All Maptun tuning stages has a default safe torque level. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: What’s the difference and brand of the new performance clutch? compared to the SPEC one?
A: It gives better drivability and lower price. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: Does the stage 1 tune for the 2008 9-3 SS 2.0T improve gas mileage and how much?
A: The short answer is maybe. Depending on the driving style, we have seen indications of lower consumption however its nothing that we can promise. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: What are the best options and where to being to improve the chassis response of the 9-3ss My2003, with Aero suspension kit?
A: No 1: Strut-brace, No 2: Better springs, No 3: Better shock-absorbers. / Fredrik Åberg
Q: Also in my case, for example to improve the response of the turbo?
A: The turbo responds better if you upgrade to a performance exhaust system the back-pressure is lower in those types of exhaust systems. The exhaust is hot as it leaves the turbo and cools down as it flows towards the end of the exhaust system, therefore its better to have a larger diameter of the exhausts forward parts close to the turbo and then decrease the diameter further back. / Fredrik Åberg

















Peter, Sweden said on January 22, 2013
Though I have a Hirsched car myself this was still very interesting reading! Thanks a lot for your effort, guys
Thylmuc said on January 22, 2013
Great, thanks!
74StingSaab said on January 22, 2013
Thanks to maptun for taking the time to address concerns.
I have often thought to maptun my ’06 combi but have always been concerned with the mileage already on the car, which is 58k miles. Reading the one response makes me feel more secure in saying it will be ok to do so as my car has always been well maintained with mainly highway miles.
Pacey said on January 23, 2013
I have a 1999 9-3 with 210,000km. It’s been at stage 3 for almost 1 year and was stage 1 for over 1 year before this, and it drives better than ever. Stage 1 is just taking the car to the power output it should really have had from the factory – they only limit it to ensure everyone can drive it with 100% safety (this particularly applies to engineered lag in throttle response). Go for it – you’ll fall in love with your car all over again.
rarelibra said on January 22, 2013
I went with Maptun when I wanted to tune my Saab and it was the best thing I ever did (along with the additional components and mods that I have done). The performance was a world of a difference, has always been reliable, and makes one wish that all Saabs came this way.
JasonPowell said on January 22, 2013
Thanks Tim and Rune, for bringing these questions to the team at Map Tun and thanks Fredrik and P-A for answering the questions brought forward, this is very helpful.
Marcin said on January 23, 2013
Thank you guys very much. I’ll be using Maptun in the future for sure.However, I have a question regarding one of the answers about the 9-3 sc being most reliable ,but I would like to know which engine are they talking about ,is it the2.0 or 2.8.I’m asking because 9-3 is the next one I’m getting,it is just a matter of which engine.I,personally, am leaning towards the 2 liter 4 cyl engine.
Thanks again
Tim said on January 23, 2013
I’m pretty sure P-A was talking about the four cylinder engine. I have heard before that the 2,0t is the best one since it has upgrade camshafts and several other improved things compared to the 1,8t.
Bob Clark said on January 23, 2013
Thanks guys, for our answer on 9000 spring renewals. It confirms an instinctive feeling that we have to find the money for a new set all round, rather than fit secondhand like-for-like spares.
Pacey said on January 23, 2013
If I were you I’d spring for a decent aftermarket kit of matched springs/dampers rather than trying to find OEM, or just replacing the springs. Depends on your budget, but here’s an example: 9000 92′-98′ Koni Equipped Sports Suspension Kit.
xelav said on January 23, 2013
Thanks for the q&a at maptun. Now I would like to know how the upgrade of your car went Tim? Does your neck hurts when flooring the pedal to the metal ? Enjoy.
Red J said on January 23, 2013
I think the snow reduces slightly the max acceleration
Tim said on January 23, 2013
Unfortunately we didn’t have time to do the full mapping with both gasoline and E85 but we’re going to do that at a later date. Right now my car runs with 268,8 hp and 380,2 Nm on the wheels which I found out is way too much in winter conditions anyway since the ESP indication is a constant light as soon as the pedal is depressed, even slightly =)
The engine gives out 298,6 hp and 422 Nm of torque on 98 octane gasoline, running on E85 the engines delivers about 10% more which brings it close to 330 hp…
The big difference that I felt instantly was smoothness of the clutch and the smooth operation of the gears after having been fine-tuned by P-A. The sound from the car is a bit too much for my taste but I guess I can live with it, just hope my neighbors feel the same way =P
The brakes I haven’t really given a proper test yet since they are brand new and should be broken in gently…
Aeroman said on January 23, 2013
Does anyone know the torque capacity of the B207R engine clutch (stock)? The owner’s manual of MY2006 Aero says “Maximum torque, EEC at 2500 rpm = 221 ft.lb. (300 Nm)”, but I assume this just refers to the engine in general.
Reason I ask is that I’ve fitted Maptun Stage 1 (when the car had 28k miles / 45k km) and everything ran fine for about 10k miles / 16k km, then the clutch started to slip above 3.5k rpm. I’m not a heavy clutch user and use the extra power sparingly (i.e. rotten fuel prices), so wouldn’t expect the clutch to wear out so soon.
My question is: is this normal wear to be expected with a Stage 1 upgrade, and if so, should a clutch upgrade be recommended by Maptun from the outset?
Tim said on January 23, 2013
The standard clutch should be able to cope with 400 Nm with ease. I highly doubt that a stage 1 could ruin your clutch, I’d investigate some other matter such as lack of lubrication for example. When was the last time you changed oil in the gear box and what does the magnetic plug look like? Most of the ones I’ve seen on cars that has about 100k km’s on it they look like a hedgehog, packed with metallic fragments. What does the syncronisation-rings look like?
Check under the car if the gearbox is wet or dry… if its wet you’ve got a leak that needs to be taken care of…
Please let me know what you find out and I can forward the details to Maptun or some other guys we know
Aeroman said on January 24, 2013
Thanks Tim. I’ll look into the gearbox lubrication, as I don’t believe it has ever been changed, unless it was part of the Saab service programme (only been serviced at Saab dealers). What I should have mentioned earlier is that the clutch doesn’t slip in 1st and 2nd gear, but I understand torque is limited to stock in the lower gears anyway. I also did another test by de-tuning the car (with the excellent Maptuner), and the clutch doesn’t appear to slip anymore, even when I push the car hard. Maybe the clutch is simply wearing out sooner and only showing these symptoms when the torque is increased. I’ll let you know my finding re gear box though. Thanks for this article, very useful!
Joaquinho said on January 23, 2013
Hi there, who has experience with TTID4 (180hp) tuning? Thanks for any answer!
Tim said on January 23, 2013
Maptun does: 210 Hp / 450 Nm TTiD tuning
Rune said on January 23, 2013
I am currently testing the 210bhp MapTun upgrade now, and plan to write a small post about it one of these days. (will probably be a couple of more weeks as I have to investigate a small, but probably specific to our 9-3, snag first)
xlx said on January 24, 2013
very nice reading, thanks for the answers.The considerations about improving my petrol 2.8 are back, hmm …