I remember a discussion here at SU about the contrasting leather in the OG 9-5 seats was not real leather, but vinyl. This is something that got very real to me 2015. I generally take good care of my car, but I have not done much to the seats. I like to think that leather seats get a nice patina over time, if it is real leather, that is.
Summer 2015 the light colored fake leather in my driver seat cracked. I thought it was a shame, since my car is in good condition. I decided to mend it. I looked around the internet and found a solution called “Color Glo”. Color Glo is specialized in fixing damages in both real leather and vinyl. They can also imprint different leather patterns to mimic the original look.
It turned out that cracked fake leather on Saabs was quite common and that the rip could not be too large in order to fix it. Mine was ok to mend. Unfortunately, the leather pattern could not be imprinted because the cushion beneath the rip was too compressed (gap between the cushion and the vinyl). It seems that the cushions gets worn quite fast.
The mending looked ok, but not by any means perfect. Still, the seat was in once piece again. The mending got lightly tainted by my blue jeans quite fast.
Just before this summer, a piece came off the mending and I am back to square one again. It seems that it is not possible to get a permanent solution for this issue. At least not with the method I chose.
I think Tim mentioned that if you chose the all black version of the seat, you got all real leather. That was probably the correct choice to make. I also discussed this matter with my previous boss who used to be employed at Saab. He said that Saab had pure leather all over the seats for a long time. In competition, Saab was the only one to keep leather all over and scaled down to specific parts of the seat to keep price on par with competition.
Has anyone tried any other method? Please write a post and share your experience!
You may remember the article I wrote about a year ago about the LED-bar for 2010 on 9-5. I guess the problem with a burned out LED-bar is something we 9-5 owners will experience once or more times in the lifespan of the car. The part is “NLS”(No Longer Supplied) by Orio, and as I understand they will not produce a replacement in the future.
Why the LED-bar burns out is the question many of us ask ourselves, but I haven’t got a 100% answer to that. In my opinion is it one ting we easy can do to extend the lifespan for the LED-bar; preventing moisture in the LED-bar. What I had done in addition to new gaskets is to place two small dehumidifier bags (about 10x10cm) in the luggage compartment, behind the covers for the tail-lamps. I just attach them to the bodywork with a strip of tape, and since I start doing this I haven’t noticed any moisture in the LED-bar at all.
But if you stand with there with a burned out LED-bar, what to do? The answer is pretty obvious – if you can’t buy a new one, repair your broken unit!
I would like to make a summary of those I know repair the LED-bar, the list is NOT complete so if you know about other – please let me know! There are also a few dealers that I know that have their own exchange-system, if not I’m sure they will help you to mail in your LED-bar.
Logan Diagnostic – Franklin TN, USA Have a partnership with Orio NA, they also fix 3rd brake light and tail lamps. Mail-in-for-repair. Logan Diagostic specializes in repair of GM automotive lightning products. http://ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html
eSaabparts – USA Sells the “Aaron DIY-kit”. It is just what it sounds like, a DIY-kit for those of you that will fix the LED-bar yourself. eSaabparts ships only to US, but if you go to the website you will find Aarons contact-info if you scroll to the bottom of the page – and I’ll guess he will ship worldwide. https://www.esaabparts.com/95ng-led-fix/
Henrik Blom – Sweden Developing a brand new kit. This kits will be delivered with pre-assembled cards and cables, if you never have soldered before you don’t need to worry about that. Everything is done considering making it as easy as possible, but for those of you that feels unsafe to cut out the old cards there will be possible to send in the LED-bar for repair. Henrik has also promised a extra function for the LED-bar, more info will come later when the kit is ready to be sold.
Yes I have had a 9000S once, a silver metallic 1987. Originally sold in the US to a swedish correspondent working Washington DC. That was a fine car with all the bells and whistles of the TURBO version but no turbo. A 130 bhp super efficient engine with 6.5l/100km gas milage. The 9000 was when it came out as the first of 4 siblings (Fiat Chroma, AlfaRomeo 164 and Lancia Thema) in 1984 one of the best cars on the road. Never had SAAB Automobile made such a jump in technology. All previous cars dated back two decades. SAAB needed something more and new. The Swedish-Italian development was reaching the pinnacle of car engineering. The SAAB 9000 Turbo was a sales success and the performance and handling was so radical and new compared to earlier versions from the Trollhättan engineers.
The model evolved gradually and in 1993 the AERO model was launched after the previous Talladega limited run model. The Aero was getting super performance with a 225 bhp engine and a top speed of 240 km/h making it sweden´s faster production car ever. The acceleration on 3rd and 4th gear was better than most Italian exotics from Ferrari. The red color of the 9000 Aero was even named IMOLA Red. Was that a hint on what cars this swedish beast could take on? One guy who knows the 9000 Aero as his daily drive is ex. design manager Björn Envall who has a black AERO with some 580000 km on the odo.
Over the years as You might know I have restored and built quite a few 99 Turbos, now it is time to finally do a 9000 AERO. So what we are looking for is a 9000 AERO in a condition that could be made into a truly great car. I does not have to be in mint condition that will be done though the project.
So if anyone here has a car like this or know of a car please let us know. The preferred car would be IMOLA Red, manual transmission, black leather interior. But any specimen would be of interest really as long as it not rotten out and the interior is in a decent shape.
Lets once again Unite and do a project together here on SU similar to what we did when saving the last SAAB 9-3 TTid. With Your support and that of the long list of SU commercial supporters. This project would be doable. The project will be shown here on SU of course and will be peppered with in depth stories from the people who designed and built the 9000 cars. A teaser for all of You: the unique captains leather interior was originally designed in 1977 before the launch of the planned SUPER AERO 900.
As we all know the lightbar on the “new” 9-5 is a part that often fail, and what is more annoying then a dark lightbar? There are many theory about this issue, what cause them? Some say temperature, some say bad components or vibrations – I myself have a theory that the most common cause for failure is moisture in the lightbar. My first guess was cracks in the lightbar, since I saw many cars with “foggy” lightbars, but after some investigations and some discussions with 9-5 owners I circle in the problem to be the gasket. My thought was first that Saab had chosen a gasket that was in one piece, and that the wiring that go into the lightbar was more “closed”. To my surprise the the lightbar itself was very poorly encapsulated, and the gasket was in many different small pieces, seven in total. So when I bought my 9-5 the very first thing I did (after washing it) was to go to ANA in Trollhättan and asked for a gasket kit. From I bought it to now I have noticed “fog” in the lightbar two times, the first time was after a wash on a very warm day, the other time was after a period of heavy rain. So yesterday I had some time over, and decided to change the gasket. It’s not so much to say, if you look at the pictures you will see that there are three critical points at the lightbar. The first is the point where the wiring from the lightbar meets the cars harness in the tailgate – there is a BIG open hole, probably because of the gasket. The was I see it would it been no problem to make his hole smaller, with a small seal for the few wires. The next problem is around the two clips in the ends of the lightbar. Why not mold the plastic in one piece with the clip on top, or maybe use screws like the mounting point in the middle to make this more moisture-proof? There is room enough for a 10mm nut, and tools for fasten the nut…
So how to dissemble the lightbar? It is pretty straight forward, first you use a thin flat screwdriver to careful remove the plastic cover over the tailgate lock, then you loosen two 7mm nuts for the inside handle. A long 7mm socket are preferred here. Then you remove the clips that hold the cover to the tailgate. Use the little flat screwdriver and careful remove the clips in two steps. First the top that “locks” the clip, then the part that goes up in the tailgate. Now you remove the connector to the lightbar, and then ypu remove five 10mm nuts. Now you are at the tricky part, press together the clips in the end of the lightbar. I end up using a angled radio plier (see the red plier on the lightbar-picture), and pressed in center of the clip. I also use a plastic tool (the blue tool) to help freeing the lightbar. The best tip I can give you if this is something you want to do at your own, be patient and take it easy so you don’t break anything.
As you see are the gasket pretty deformed, and all of the – in my eyes, critical ones are not laying correct. One final step to do before assembling the lightbar again is to inspect the area around the lightbar for rust. Sadly, the lightbar has a bad fit and with that result that the lightbar squeak against the paint. At four points the paint was gone, but no rust as I could see. So I took my touch-up paint and put some new paint on, hopefully will this preventing it from rust. I also sanded the plastic at the lightbar down at the points where it had hit the paint. So now I hopefully have stopped the moisture to get inside my lightbar, but I guess this is something I have to do in a couple of years again – just to be at the sure side.
So what will this cost? The gasket kit cost about 300 SEK (~US$ 35) in Sweden. P/N of the kit is 13321835. If you use your local garage for the job I guess they will charge you a hour or so for this job.
Well it finally came. I have more or less had every model of Mac Computers since I first worked on one in my Computers Class with Mr Dyar at Centennial HS in Gresham Oregon. I had the very first iPhone that never was sold in Sweden and I have been thinking of NOT going down the iWatch road. Reasons, well it feels like it is a pretty expensive watch and You still need the iPhone nearby.
Now a guy in the UK has made a nice application that can do things to his SAAB 9-3 AERO convertible. Would be nice to have this on my own CV. But the YouTube clip does not say what hardware he has in the car. Please fill us in on that if You read this. Some brands have similar apps like BMW where one can remotely do stuff.
… a car that is equipped with Internet access, and usually also with a wireless local area network. This allows the car to share internet access to other devices both inside as outside the vehicle. Often, the car is also outfitted with special technologies that tap into the internet access or wireless LAN and provide additional benefits to the driver. Examples include: automatic notification of crashes, notification of speeding and safety alerts.
The connected car is also the current buzz word in the automotive industry. But from my point of view this is not a concept driven by the automotive industry but the reaction of this to the current trend away from the car as a symbol of the ME to the connected device (smartphone, tablet, notebook …).
So the car should become a smartphone on wheels…. But if you want to connect something you have to connect it to something else. I mean, without a good network not only in the cities but also at the roads those cars would feel really alone.
Yesterday I had to make a 2 hour journey along one very important highway in Germany. I thought I could use my phone to show me the way and listen to an internet radio station during the journey. The result was that during the journey I was able to listen to the radio only 50% of the time as the 3G+ network is mostly only available at the cities or the zones nearby.
Currently the phone companies build their networks where people use it, and till now people have been using the phones at home, at work but not that much while driving to another city.
I don’t know if this is a Germany-only problem or maybe an Europe only problem, so what is your experience. Can you enjoy of the constant connectivity while driving from Stockholm to Göteborg? Or what happens in the states if you leave the big cities?
What will happen to the new fancy GPS from Audi that relies on the map data and satellite pictures from Google maps if you start your journey in the middle of nowhere if it can’t retrieve the map data?
I am looking for the following part for my 1988 900 T16s.
It is the throttle dash pot actuator valve, also known as throttle release diaphragm. If anybody can help I would be very grateful. Obviously I am willing to pay a fair price for a suitable part. Many thanks.
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